Showing posts with label Advice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Advice. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Advice from a master barber: Finding Inspiration

The layout and design of my workspace is essential to my creative flow. 
Buster Boyd: How to Stay Inspired or Find Inspiration. 

It doesn't matter what you do.  We all need inspiration from time to time.  As a barber, I firmly believe that if good people are paying good money to see me, they deserve to see an inspired me.  I really think they deserve my best.

In a TedTalks video podcast by Elizabeth Gilbert, the best-selling author points out that before the renaissance, any artist or creator was described as having a genius.  Post-renaissance, creators are described as being a genius.  Elizabeth made the interesting point that when we see inspiration as something outside or greater than ourselves, it provides us with a layer of protection from criticism, outlandish success, failure or just the overwhelming responsibility associated with genius.  Whether or not you see genius as internal or external force, (or an intercourse of both) it's important to stay in close touch with those sources of inspiration that we can find.

How I stay inspired: 

1.  My workspace: Few things can enhance or hinder inspiration as dramatically as my environment.  That includes colors, textures, images, music and even smells.  I like my workspace dark, intimate and cozy.
2.  Pictures:  I am very visual.  I have a great appreciation for photography.  Photos of people, places and things are a main source of creativity for me.  The right photo tells a story.  Stories move me.  Photos are essential because they capture and present to me content and stories that I myself would never have had access to otherwise.  I love pictures of hair, wardrobe and interior design.
3.  Music:  Music moves me.  It energizes me or mellows me out faster than anything else.  It can give me a boost when I need it or it can keep me from dropping of the edge into oblivion.  I love the darkness.  Dark and cozy music puts me in my favorite place to create and dream.
4.  My Wardrobe.  The way that I dress can make me feel lazy and sloppy or sharp and driven.  I use my clothes to snap me into productivity.
5.  Heroes:  You gotta have a hero.  The more the better.  Watch them, emulate them.  Pick the best parts of them and set goals to become the best you.
6.  Media:  I consume mass quantities of media ie. blogs, magazines (real paper hardcopies), music videos, and movies.

If you care about what you do, you will always stay ahead of the crowd.  The world needs creators.  If you are passionate and prepared, you will be ready to capture the genius when it comes knocking.  You don't want the genius to pass you by on its journey, searching for someone else, more prepared and willing to act. Stay inspired.

This is one of my most recent sources of significant inspiration:

Monday, February 6, 2012

A Gentleman Should Know: Nick Wooster


People YOU should know:  Nick Wooster

Nick Wooster was born in Austria (not Australia) in 1472. He was given birth to in a barn, much like baby Jesus. He was placed in a cot made out of hay, cheese...

No.  He wasn't.  But this was one of the first bits of info that I came across when looking for the particulars on Mr. Wooster.

Nick Wooster is the Men's Fashion Director for Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.  He has established himself as a streetfashion militiaman and guru of all things gentlemanly.  He is also style advisor to GiltMan as well as Park&Bond.

If you have ever wondered how to realize an intercourse of mature/elegant masculinity with street-savvy trends, Nick Wooster is your man.  His passion for esthetic as well as attention to detail and badass-poise makes Nick Wooster an inspiration to me.

Every man needs a mentor.  He needs a hero.  If you are in the market for a new one, give Nick a try.  Next time you are lacking inspiration for  a new haircut or wardrobe, spend a little time getting to know Mr. Wooster.  Punch his name into your google and explore the results as you would an abandoned mansion full of paintings, pictures and rooms.  As you explore the images and articles, pay close attention to how Nick has decided to present himself and why.  I am confident that you will find a little something that resonates with you.

Go on.  Get inspired. http://nickwooster.com/



Monday, January 30, 2012

Advice from a Gentleman: Kyle Paul; Self Improvement


Kyle Paul on Self Improvement.

I have had the great fortune to be colaborating on a very cool film project with a good friend of mine by the name of Kyle Paul.  One of the first things that you will notice about Kyle is that he is driven.  At the same time, he is by no means a whirlwind of chaos or an overwhelming presence by any means.  He just really knows what he wants and he is on his way to making it happen. 

As Kyle was getting some fresh color for another project, I asked him what was on his hand.  He informed me that they were personal truths.  A personal truth is important because nobody can argue with it; nobody can take it away.  For example: I love the smell of shaving cream.  It just doesn't make sense for someone to argue that I don't. 


In the name of self improvement, Kyle has trained himself to place 2 personal truths on his hand that he can focus on either for the day, a week or even a month.  The key is that the first truth be a positive one, something that you love about yourself and that the second be something that you would like to change.  He said that it is very important to couple a positive affirmation with the negative.  No matter how small it may be, you must include something that you like about yourself or that you feel you do well.  Then, go to town.  What can you improve?

Coming from a fairly accomplished individual such as Kyle, I tend to believe that there is probably something to this.  I may like the way I cut hair but I could definitely work on my posture.  One step at a time, I'm sure I'd be better off for giving this routine a try. 

The very definition of a valuable person is one who is capable of identifying their issues and is willing to resolve as many of them as they can over time.  Making changes in small and manageable portions is the name of the game.  Dedication and focus will help make sure you reach the desired outcome.  Thanks to Kyle for sharing a bit of his recipe for success and happiness! 

-Buster A. Boyd

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Advice from a Gentleman: Proper Tipping

Here is the skinny on tipping etiquette and acceptable gratuity.  Now, many may wonder what some of these titles are.  If you are one of these people, please get out more.  This is a list of how to tip some of the people that only a man of distinction may encounter.   

Proper Tipping

Restaurants:

Server: 15%

Bartender:  $1 per drink at the bar

Maitre d’:  $10 for special table or complex reservation

Coat Check: $1 per item

Sommelier:  10% of wine bill

Rest room attendant:  $1 for keeping things civil in there. 

Valet:  $2 at time of drop-off AND $2 at the time of pick-up (often two different people). 

Concierge:  $10 for special services performed

Hairstylist:  15%

Barber:  15%

Beautician (facial, manicure, pedicure etc.)  15%

Delivery Person:  3-5%

Taxi Driver: 15%

Limousine Driver: 20%  Consider more if driver has waited during dinner or reception etc. 

Bellhop:  $2 per item

Room service: 15% (may already be included)

Get out there and get savvy.   No excuses.  

-Buster A. Boyd 

Master Barber Owner Operator @ Absinthe Hair & Grooming Parlour Salt Lake City, Utah.

Friday, January 27, 2012

Advice from a Master Barber: Tools of the Trade

Tools of the Trade:  In the Water Closet

Here is a list of 15 things that I don’t think I could live without.  Unless I’m camping or something; I am a reasonable man. 

1. Tweezers:  It is difficult to appreciate how useful great tweezers are until you have been caught without them.  Do yourself a favor and pick some up.  They are great for taming the unruly eyebrow and elusive nose hair.  Come springtime, amidst the spring-cleaning and deck building, excellent tweezers make sliver removal a breeze. 

Use:  The secret to using tweezers that often escapes men is:  Don’t squeeze them so hard!  The higher the quality of the tweezers, the more important this is.  Excellent tweezers are fairly delicate in construction and should not be used like pliers.  When over-squeezed, the fine tips of the tweezers will begin to separate and may bend the tweezers, decreasing their performance.

Recommendations:  J.A. Henckels.  Check out their website here.  They can often be found at Nordstrom.


2. Nose & Ear hair Trimmers:  This one is obvious.  Keeping your ear and nose hair civilized is a service to yourself and is greatly appreciated by those around you.  Well-groomed ears and noses seldom receive the praise they deserve but, when neglected, rarely go unnoticed.  Compliment your stylish outfit and clean hairdo with the sharp absence of accessory hair.

Use:  No secrets here.  Just stick them in there and let ‘em rip. 
   
Recommendations:  J.A. Henckels makes a brilliant manual version that requires minimal finger strength to negotiate.  Electric versions are also available that make the task quick and easy.  Please do not hesitate to spend a bit more to get a good one.  You will appreciate the additional investment when the device easily cuts the hairs instead of ripping them out, which in turn results in heinous in-growns. 

3. Fingernail Clippers:  Another no-brainer.  Keep it clean on the fingernail front boys.  They may not mention it but, considering the care that most women exercise on this aspect of grooming, I promise you that the fairer sex thanks you. Good clippers are also great for cutting the zip-ties off the packaging from your new toys. 

4. Q-tips:  One of life’s simple pleasures, and something that I wish for myself and all I love, is the gentle nibbling of one’s earlobes by a passionate partner.  When performed well, it has been known to give the sensation of floating an inch or two off the ground.  If you intend on enjoying this rich ritual, you better do your partner the courtesy of keeping ears free of bitter-tasting debris. 

Use:  Doctors will tell you that they are not particularly fans of the Q-tip.  While it is handy to have around for simple grooming, it does tend to pack wax back in the ear instead of removing it. 

Recommendations:  Any decent super-market pharmacy has a small ear-cleaning kit consisting of wax-dissolving ear-drops and a bulb to flush the ear with water.  It feels great and is appropriate to perform from time to time.  Also, consider using a quick flush of the ear with hydrogen peroxide before Q-tipping.  Consistent cleansing of the ears will also increase the likelihood of overhearing comments made on the new car you bought with your back-end check.  Way to go champ!

5. Cotton applicator rounds:  These are a must-have for applying astringents and toners.  They also aid in the application of alcohol to the disc brakes of your Mt. bike. 

Recommendations:  The quilted ones tend to fall apart less on your 5 o’clock shadow.

6. Facial Cleanser:  Yeah, wash your face.  You wouldn’t wax your car before washing it. 

Use:  If you have added an exfoliating facial scrub to your arsenal, then feel free to take it easy with your face soap.  Give your face a break.

Recommendations:  A Glycolic cleanser will help to gently polish away dead skin and the such, making your face more sexy and easier to shave.

7. Astringent:  Whether or not you know what it is for, you will love the way if feels.  Cool, fresh and clean.  James Bond wouldn’t be caught dead seducing without it, and neither should you. 

Use:  An Astringent is meant to shrink your pores (the holes you see across your cheeks and nose) and help control shine (keep you from looking oily) during the day.  Trust me, small pores are much more becoming than large ones.  The astringent works by breaking down the natural oils in your face, this is usually accomplished by the alcohol that is in the ingredients thus, it may result in some significant dryness; especially on sensitive skin.

Recommendations:  Kiehl’s.  Check ‘em out.  Click it.

8. Toner:  Give your face a healthy glow and remove any leftover dirt, oil or debris that may have survived your soap and shave.  A toner will also help to restore your face’s natural pH levels after having waged chemical warfare on it.  Basically, it is a chill-pill for your face that lets it know that everything is going to be alright. 

Use:  A toner will also help to shrink pores and reduce shine.  It tends to be milder than an astringent and can be used all over the face with less dryness.

Recommendations:  I tend to use a toner all over my face and use the astringent specifically on the more oily areas like my cheeks, nose and forehead (the “T zone”).  I also got some Anthony astringent toner pads.  They are great for a quick way to freshen-up.  Check them out here.

9. Exfoliating Facial Scrub:  Exfoliating is like sanding your face.  It is like toothpaste for your mug.  It polishes dead skin away while it frees up in-grown hairs and removes deep down dirt and grime.  Just like sanding a deck or chair that you are refinishing, regular exfoliation is a proper foundation to other treatments you may have for your face.

Use:  Facial scrubs are very course.  They should not be used everyday.  Realistically, your face can only keep up with 2-3 times a week.  Any more than this is a waste of money.  Please be extra gentle if you are using any acne treatments.  These tend to thin-out an weaken the skin.  A dermatologist may recommend avoiding a scrub.  Please note that for best results, you MUST rub gently.  Consider that the harder you press, the more the scrub is forced out from between your fingers and face.  If you scrub gently, you will actually keep more of the polishing scrub moving under your fingers. 

Recommendations:  Laura Mercier makes a face scrub that is full of ground up fruit seeds.  It is awesome and I got it at Nordstrom as well.  I dare say that it played a small role in getting me backstage at a Poison concert where I met my first two ex-wives. 

10. Oil-free Facial Moisturizer With SPF 15 or higher: How many of us put a sealant on the deck and a UV protectant clear-coat on the BMW?  Don’t forget your face!  He’s been there for you all this time.  Slow down the aging process and avoid sun related damage to your skin with a moisturizer with SPF 15 or so. 

Use:  Don’t undo all the work you’ve done up to this point by oiling up your visage with heavy lotions!  Stop it!  Victoria doesn’t let Mr. Beckham do it, and I wont let you.  If you procure an oil-free lotion for your face, don’t hesitate to smear it on.  In fact, if you think your will avoid getting oily during the day by skipping over oily areas with your moisturizer, you are wrong.  If you leave the oily areas to fend for themselves, they will do what they can to produce even more oil to make up for your impudence.  Let them kick back and relax with a rich cocktail of moist and SPF.

Recommendations:  Anthony Logistics for Men.  Love it.  Click it.

11. Pre-Shave Oil:  If you haven’t had the pleasure of shaving with a pre-shave oil, chances are you are not alone.  Most of the men I know have never heard of it.  Now you have and you have no excuse for not sharing the love.  If you are plagued by razor burn, in-grown hairs and post shave irritation, get your mitts on some. 

Use:  This stuff is going on BEFORE most other face action, so it’s okay to oil-up in this case.  Just use a small amount and work it around.  You don’t need much.  The oil will soften the beard and lubricate the skin.  It is a lifesaver.  Keep in mind that shaving healthy, toned skin is easier than shaving rough, irritated and grumpy skin.  This in turn, means that the healthier your skin gets, the easier the shave, the less irritated your face, the less likely you are to pick a bar fight.

12. Shaving Cream:  Duh.

13. Razor with fresh blades:  The sharper the blade, the better.  Keep blades clean, sharp and new.  Be aware of where and how you set your razor down.  Be very careful not to bend the blades at all or… there will be blood. 

Use:  You probably think you know all about shaving.  You might.  But, here is the goal:  Do the most with the least.  Do what you can to get the best shave with the fewest strokes.  All of your first swipes should be WITH the grain of the hairs (unless you are a collector of fine razor bumps and in-grown hairs).  If you need another swipe to get the job done, consider swiping across the grain second and against the grain as the last resort.  Feel free to re-lather for each phase. 

(Straight Razor)  Wow, yeah.  I’m not even going to try here.  This will have it’s very own section.  Well worth the time and money though.  A shave that would make Doc Holliday proud. 

(Badger-hair Brush)

14. After-shave Balm:  Ever hear Van Halen’s “Finish What You Started?”  Step one: go listen to it; it’ll do you good (if you have a second, check out “Respect the Wind” too).  Step two:  do it.  The after-shave balm, like the toner, tells your face that all is well and to relax.  While a simple concept, this is SO important.  Don’t leave your face hangin.  Have the consideration to finish it off with some love and satisfaction. 

Use:  You can handle this one.

Recommendations:  Oh Anthony, what will you think of next?  Click it.

15. Electric Razor with clipper attachment or set of Clippers:  If you have someone that is willing to do so, keeping your neck and hairline clean and sharp is sexy.  Any time I go to get my hair cut, the stylist asks without fail:  “And your sideburns?  Are you attached to those?”  That is their way of saying:  sick.  Keep ‘em trimmed up. 

Use:  Also, consider doing your partner the courtesy of some serious “Manscaping” in the nether regions.  Do I really need to make a case for this?  Come on… you should know better.  Entertain the idea of keeping armpits clean and smooth.  The hairs only tend to hold onto dirt, bacteria and odor.  Get that outta here!  *Side note:  if you do shave your armpits, be very careful of the deodorant and antiperspirant that you use.  Consider organic or all-natural alternatives. 

Recommendations:  I am using a deodorant crystal.  It contains minerals or something that keep odor-causing bacteria at bay.  It works really well for me.  Additionally, I met a lady the other day that uses straight up Vodka to keep clean.  Marlon Brando… eat your heart out. 

That’s it.  Get out there.  Get classy. 

-Buster A. Boyd


Local Barber Salt Lake City Utah Style Men's

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

I digress: Advice from a Master Barber - Vodka Review - My pick

My favorite Vodka - Which Vodka is most smooth - What is the smoothest Vodka - Which is the Best Vodka - Which vodka will girls prefer? 

Entertaining is just as much a part of the modern Gentleman's Life as his Hair and Grooming.  In order to be an educated host, here is my definitive review of the following 3 libations: Svedka (Swedish), Hight West (Park City, Utah) and Vampyre (England). 

The following are Buster A. Boyd's Vodka picks:

1. Vampyre Label Vodka - $18.99 us:  Intense Red Color.  Not only does the intense red make it more fun to drink/mix, it is our hypothesis that the certified red color makes this mid-top shelf vodka "wickedly smooth."  The price is okay and the flavor is all but absent.  It is very subtle with no perceivable vodka "bite" at all.  P.S. the red is so intense that it is hardly diminished when mixed and will actually stain the skin for quite a while.

2.  High West Vodka 7000 - $30 us:  The High West Distillery in Park City, Utah is know for it's impeccable Whiskey distillation, but deserves to be recognized for it's vodka as well!  Distilled at exactly 7000 feet in the Wasatch Front, it is smooth to say the least.  If you don't mind the taste of vodka, this bottle is NICE!  The flavor is complex and easily managed.  If you like to pretend that the vodka is not there, stick with the Vampyre. 

3.  Svedka - I can't remember what the price is, but it's a very nice mid shelf Vodka.  There is a distinguishable "bite" to the bottle but nothing unexpected.  When mixed it still makes itself known.  The perceivable flavor is not unpleasant at all but doesn't slip under the radar.

Flavor Winner:  High West
Smoothness Winner:  Vampyre
Party Cred Winner:  High West (the bottle is classy and has character)
Unique/Fun Factor Winner:  Vampyre
Value Winner:  Vampyre (So smooth yet mid-shelf price tag)
Low $$ but makes you a valuable party attendee Winner:  Svedka 

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Advice from a Master Barber: How to improve male hair growth


How can I get my hair to grow faster? 
Is there a way to stimulate more hair growth in men? 

Unfortunately, if hair loss is in your genes, well... fight the good fight.

Tips to encourage male hair growth:

1.  Proper Grooming:  In order for your hair to grow freely, it is very important to get a good scrub and cleanse from time to time.  Clogged or suffocated hair follicles will have a hard time producing maximum hair growth.  Modern hair products are strong and effective.  Make sure that you thoroughly and completely clean your hair and scalp during the week.  Allow your head to breathe fresh air often.   I encourage you to seek out an exfoliating scalp treatment from your local barber a few times a year. 

2.   Diet:  Think about a tree.  If you cut it down you can see the rings inside.  Those rings can tell a story of growth, disease and harsh weather conditions.  Your hair is like a core sample of YOU growing out of your head!  It is a direct reflection of what you put into it (including drugs and medicine).  Put good things in, get good things out.  Hair is not essential to life, if you have a poor diet or are sick, your body will focus attention away from your hair and onto more pressing issues.

3.   Exercise:  Blood carries food to your scalp and hair.  Regular exercise promotes better circulation and food supply to your hair follicles.  Get that blood pumping!

4.  Stress:  Avoid it.  Learn to cope with it in a healthy way.  Sickness, stress or poor nutrition will put priority on other things and hair quality and growth can suffer as a result.

5.  Supplements:  There is no silver bullet.  As a part of good diet, health promoting vitamins and minerals will positively influence the story that grows out of your head.  A healthy body has a healthy scalp... healthy scalp grows good hair.  Biotin aka: vitamin H or B7 is good for hair, skin, nails and heart.  It is relatively inexpensive and since it's water-soluble, you'll just pee out any excess you get.

6.  Hair Product:  If you use heavy products like pomades, take care in how they are applied.  Slather all the product you want on and in your hair, but there is no need to grind styling product onto your scalp.  Fingers and comb can help work product evenly THROUGH hair without gooping up your follicles needlessly. 

Keep your chin up and do the best you can with what you've been given.

- Buster A. Boyd owner/stylist/master barber @ The Absinthe Parlour

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Advice from a Master Barber: Men's Hair Growth Statistics

Image Copyright Absinthe Hair

Here is the skinny as far as hair growth for men: 

Men's Hair Stats:

Average Hair Growth per Month: 1/2 inch - 2/3 inch
Average Life Span of a Head Hair: 4-5 years
Average Daily Hair Loss: 125-150 hairs
Average Hair Follicle Density per Head: 100,000

Pogonotrophy: The growing of facial Hair.

Average Monthly Growth of Facial Hair: 1/2 inch

-Buster A. Boyd Owner/Stylist/Master Barber The Absinthe Parlour


Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Scissors or Shears?

So I have had quite a few people ask me a great but simple question: should I be calling them scissors or shears?

Answer: Most simply, scissors are shorter than six inches and shears are longer than six inches. In addition, shears usually have double-ground edges and the finger holes are traditionally asymmetrical or different sizes. For the most part, what we end up using on a daily basis would be scissors technically. But, even the Milady's Professional Barbering textbook calls them shears.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

What's the 'diff?' Different Kinds of Clippers for Barbering


Heavy Metal. Any great barber has great tools. Now, I wouldn't go SO far as to say that a barber is only as good as his tools. But the best tools can make a great barber more efficient, precise and professional. Sturdy, well-built and high quality clippers are at the center of the professional barber. If you are in the process of choosing your next clipper or just want to understand more about the basic differences in the various types of clippers, then read on. I'll go over a few of the big differences.

1. Magnetic or Vibratory Clippers- These clippers are fairly common. For the most part they have one, fixed cutting blade that can be adjusted with a lever on the side to cut closer or farther from the scalp. Clipper guards or attachment combs, can be used to achieve longer styles than the blade alone would provide. Magnetic clippers are not as powerful as Pivot or Rotary motor clippers. Magnetic clippers utilize a spring mechanism to return the blade each time the magnetic motor pulls the blade in one direction. So you really only get an actual cut stroke in one direction. These clippers are great for overall cutting and trimming. Especially on fine-medium hair.

2. Pivot Motor Clippers- Pivot motor clippers, while not quite as powerful as Rotary motor clippers, are still 2x more powerful than Magnetic. They accomplish twice as many blade strokes since the the motor pulls the cutting blade in both directions. These clippers require little maintenance. Like Magnetic clippers, Pivot clipper have an adjustable blade with an adjustment lever on the side. They are also capable of accommodating removable clipper guards. These clippers are a bit more durable and quite powerful. They are a great choice for barbers that need a 'work horse' clipper that is heavy duty and low-fuss. They can be used on wet or dry, coarse or fine hair.

3. Rotary Motor Clippers- AKA: Universal Motor. These are the heavy metal. Rotary Motor clippers are the most powerful and durable. This is the heavy artillery that a barber wants to have around for all day use. The Rotary Motor is suited for medium to coarse, wet or dry hair. There are some 2-speed models that on the low speed setting are okay for some types of fine hair as well. A big difference with Rotary Motor clippers is that instead of a blade adjustment lever, they have replaceable blades or cutting heads. On rotary clippers you simply remove the entire cutting head, blades and all, and install a completely different cutting head to suit a much shorter or longer result. These clippers tend to have fewer moving parts and run fairly quietly. These clippers are generally the most expensive but can last for years and years.

Some additional considerations when choosing a clipper:

Would you prefer a cordless clipper?
How long is the cord?
Is there a 2-speed model?
Does it come with additional blades?
Does it tend to run hot? (some clippers get hot enough to be uncomfortable for your client)
How easy is it to service and clean?
How often will you be using them?
Are they too heavy to be used comfortably?
Are they too loud to be comfortable for your client?
Can they be used on wet hair?
What is the warranty like?